EcoSoya™ PB

EcoSoya™ PB requires no additives and has outstanding stability with no experienced shelf life in or out of candles. Old or partial candles may be remelted and the wax reused. EcoSoya™ waxes should be stored in a cool dry location away from direct heat, sunlight and moisture. Temporary extremes in temperatures cold or hot have no adverse effect. EcoSoya™ waxes may be used frozen and if partially melted, allow them to cool and re-solidify before use.

Molds

Molds should be clean and room temperature. Your molds may need “conditioning” before using EcoSoya™. If your candle does not release well after drying, clean the mold, re-melt the wax and re-pour. This will have “conditioned” the mold.

Color

Most any dyes work with EcoSoya™; powder, liquid, chips, blocks, etc. Pigments do not dissolve in EcoSoya™. When using powder dyes heat the wax to 190°F, add the dye and mix until dissolved. Powder dyes may also be dissolved in fragrance and then added to the melted wax, be sure the dye has dissolved completely before adding. When using powder dyes dissolved in fragrance, liquid dyes, color blocks, chips or no dye heat the wax to 165°F. If you wish to make your candle darker or “richer” add a little black dye to the color you are using.

Fragrance

EcoSoya™ PB may be used with most any fragrance up to 10-12%. Burn pool size and depth greatly affect scent throw sp proper wicking is essential. Some fragrances may react poorly with the wax causing bleed, objectionable frosting, or poor flame quality; try a different fragrance or manufacturer to eliminate it.

Wicking

EcoSoya™ soy waxes require larger wick sizes than paraffin. They tend to burn more down than out allowing them to have longer burn periods. Scent, color and candle configuration have a great impact on the best wick choice. Too large of a wick may cause sooting, quick burn times and guttering (wax leaking through the side of the candle). The following table is a list of suggested wick types and sizes to begin testing with, adjustments may be needed. Keep wicks trimmed to ¼ inch. If you experience poor flame quality or stability, try a different type of wick. Test burning should be done after the candle has had a chance to sit for 48 hours after pouring.

Melting

When using liquid, chip and block dyes or no dye at all, heat the wax to 165°F. For powder dye use, heat the wax to 190°F, add the dye and mix until dissolved. Temporary high temperatures such as 190°F have no adverse effect as long as the wax is cooled back down quickly. Higher temperatures may cause the wax to discolor. Allow the wax to cool to your desired pour temperature, add the fragrance and mix well. Be sure to stir/mix the wax while melting.

Pouring

Pour temperatures may vary according to mold type & size, fragrance & dye used and the effects you want to achieve. Scent should be added and mixed right before pouring or at higher temperatures if desired. If you experience difficulties with your pour temperature try a lower or higher temperature in increments of 10°F. EcoSoya™ PB does not produce bubbles when poured, tapping of the molds is not necessary.

PB Double-Pour: When using EcoSoya™ PB two pours are required with larger candles such as 3 & 4 inch pillars. Do the first pour at 155°F by filling the mold to the top and allowing the candle to cool until it’s still warm with a congealed center that has no liquid. If the top of the mold (bottom of the candle) has “skinned” over and left a void inside, poke two holes into the candle near the wick and pour a second time at 145°F. Do not pour past the solidified wax of the first pour; in essence you are “filling” the first pour. Cool at room temperature; other cooling techniques used with paraffin have similar effects.

Making Votives with PB: Make the first pour at 155°F by filling the mold to within 1/8 inch from the top. Allow the candle to cool until it's still warm with a congealed center that has no liquid. If the top of the candle has "skinned" over, poke two holes near the wick and pour a second time at 145°F to completely fill the votive mold.

Candle Cooling and Mold Release

Cool undisturbed candles at room temperature (about 70°F). The molds should be about 1/4 to 1/2 inch apart to allow air circulation for even cooling. EcoSoya™ PB is self-releasing. Spray silicone mold release may be used in the unusual event of sticking. If difficult mold release is experienced, placing the mold/candle in the refrigerator for a few minutes will cause the candle to release. Candles should be allowed to sit undisturbed for 48 hours before test burning.

General Candle Making

Making a candle is a process of combining wax with dye, fragrance, container configuration and wick. All these components can have a dramatic effect on the wax and how the candle performs. Dyes and fragrances can react poorly with each other and cause problems with wicking. They can also react with the wax to produce undesirable effects in the wax.

Choose a container that you want to use for your candle. Pick and mix a dye with the wax that gives you the desired look, use a wick you think will burn well, (see Wicking). Then choose a fragrance and add it to the container, wax, dye and wick combination. Check the look and scent throw (both cold and hot) of the candle. If the look is off then you may need another type or manufacturer of dye or fragrance. If the scent throw is poor, try a different type of wick or a different type or manufacturer of fragrance. Fragrances vary from company to company; one company's vanilla may be different from another company’s vanillas.

Test Burn:Now check wicking. Test burn the candle for burn pool diameter and “mushrooming” after it has setup (cured or dried) for 48 hours. Mushrooming is when carbon and/or other substances build up on the end of the wick interfering with combustion. Mushrooming can cause sooting and off odors. Try different wicks until you have your desired burn pool diameter and a good clean flame. A general rule of thumb is to have a full burn pool ¼ to ½ inch deep, from side to side in about the same number of hours as the number of inches the diameter of the container.

Every combination of mold, wax, dye, fragrance and wick must be tested for burn quality.

General Troubleshooting

If you experience a problem with your candle, try the following steps to isolate the cause. Whatever the issue may be it’s important that you test for only one variable at a time. This enables you to isolate the cause of your problem. Variables include but are not limited to the mold, wax, dye, fragrance, wick, pour temperature and even environmental conditions such as cooling temperature.

• First make a candle in the mold with only the wick (no dye or fragrance). If it looks good then the wax is performing normally.
• Then one at a time change a variable. Try adding the dye without fragrance to the wax and wick. If it looks good and burns well the dye is compatible with the wax.
• Try adding the fragrance without dye to the wax and wick. If it looks good and burns well the fragrance is compatible with the wax.
• Try the dye and fragrance together with the wax and wick. If it looks good and burns well the dye/fragrance combination is compatible with the wax.
• If you are experiencing burn problems, try a different type or size of wick.
• Other variables to try are different pouring and cooling temperatures and even different molds.

Be sure all equipment and materials are contaminant free. This can be a lot of work but you will find the cause of your problem. Be sure to record all your testing and results. When you do find the cause, substitute a different type or manufacturer of that component until you achieve your desired results.

The above suggestions are only suggestions, your results may vary. Testing and experimenting are the only way to achieve the effects and results you desire. Be sure to follow all safety precautions and directions recommended by the manufacturer of the tools, materials and equipment you use. We welcome your comments and suggestion.